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Hadiboh

With the gorgeous Haggier Mountains as a looming backdrop Hadiboh is the main city on the island with about 8,000 residents. Most all the shops, offices and supplies are centered here. There are small restaurants and streetfood, a bazaar, money exchange, a medical clinic and more here in Hadiboh. It’s definitely worth spending a day, or at least part of a day exploring Hadiboh. Don’t miss the fish market just out of town.

Expect to get a lot of stares, curious interactions, smiles and hellos from local Socotris. More often than not people will walk up to you and try to communicate or ask you to take their photos.

Unfortunately, there is a lot of garbage all over the streets in Hadiboh.

Northwest

The northwest of Socotra is home to some of the most beautiful coastal scenery on Earth. Think ribbons of white sand, waters that transition from aquamarine to turquoise to emerald green, and finally to sapphire.

  • Qalansiya- This is Socotra’s second-largest city and the jumping-off point for adventures to Shua’ab Beach. It’s worth spending at least a couple hours meandering down the handful of streets, expect to attract a crowd of local kids.
  • Detwah Lagoon- Imagine blinding white sand with swirls of crystal clear water– this is Detwah Lagoon. Detwah is great for swimming and checking out the island’s marine life. It’s almost guaranteed Abdullah ‘the caveman” will find you here and invite you out for a few hours of catching seafood which he will take you to his cave and cook up. On the west end of the lagoon, there is a great lookout up a hill. A lovely woman (a sister in law of ‘the caveman’) named Saadia lives near the Detwah camp and is a joy to spend time with.
  • Shua’ab- With no road you’ll most likely arrive here by dhow boat from Qalansiya, but hiking here is a possibility. Shua’ab is a small and remote village set along a beautiful white sand beach flanked by arid cliffs. On the boat ride out here keep your eyes peeled for spinner dolphins.
  • Balaqthan Sinkhole- Roughly halfway between Hadiboh and Qalansiya you’ll reach the village of Balaqthan (just before nearby Ghubba) just off the main paved road. You can follow dirt tracks out there to visit the village (if you arrive when kids are on the afternoon break they’ll be really curious) which has a decent-sized sinkhole just off the beach. Many locals believe its from a meteor strike however, it is more than likely just a result of stone that collapsed here long ago.
  • Balaqthan Salt Mine- Directly across the main road from the Balaqthan Sinkhole is the Balaqthan Salt Mine. This circular depression is filled with salty water that evaporates, allowing for locals to mine salt from the pool.

Northeast

Socotra’s northeast offers up caves, plateaus, wild beaches, dunes and heaps of endemic flora.

  • Homhil Protected Area- Home to an abundance of Socotra’s endemic flora including dragon blood trees, bottle trees and frankincense. Near the edge of Homhil there is a natural pool that has epic views down onto the Arabian Sea below. After heavy rainfall in October 2019 the tracks to Homhil were washed out but should be restored soon.
  • Arher Beach & Dunes- This is a popular camping site for locals. Arher has a long white sand beach and is backed by massive white dunes pushed up against the cliffside. When I was here in March 2019 the beach was lit with blue bioluminescent plankton at night so do check for it.
  • Dihamri Marine Protected Area- Socotra’s prime spot for snorkeling and diving along reefs. There is a small dive shop that rents out snorkel masks and fins as well as dive gear.
  • Hoq Cave- The largest cave on the island accessible by a two hour uphill hike from the village of Saqra. Trust me, the trek is worth it for what the cave holds. Fascinating rock formations, larger then life stalagmites and stalactites, a lake and more await you in Hoq Cave. Bring a headlamp and flashlight.
  • Delisha Beach- Not far from Hadiboh is the little beach area of Delisha. Prior to the cyclones that ravaged the island in 2015 Adeeb’s Eco Lodge sat right off the beach. It is currently being rebuilt and you can camp there.
  • Ras Irisal- As far east in Socotra you can possibly go. Ras Irisal is a small beach from which most the fisherman in the village of Irisal depart from. This is also the spot where the Indian Ocean and Arabian Sea meet. Make sure and stop by the village as well, the locals are friendly and the kids will get a kick out of playing with foreigners.
  • Crab City- On a small cape-like piece of land that juts out to the north into the sea near the furthest east end of Socotra sits a beach facing toward the northeast that has thousands of little pyramids on it. Welcome to Crab City. These little pyramids are formed by the ghost crabs that call this beach home as they dig protective tunnels.
  • Irisal Beach- Irisal Beach sits on the opposite side of that little cape mentioned above, facing to the northwest. This is one of my favorite beaches in Socotra as it offers amazing views crystal clear waters and the Arher Dunes in the distance.
  • Meeting Point Of The Oceans- This is the easternmost point of Socotra Island. You’ll know if you’re in the right place if you reach a white sandy beach with humongous whale vertebrae on it. Continue on down to the water and you’ll find a rocky channel with a small rocky outcrop on the other side where you can find lots of balloon fish swimming around.
  • Rash Marine Protected Area- Another diving and snorkeling hotspot.
  • Qaria Lagoon- Home to a small village on its shore. Keep an eye out for pink flamingos in the lagoon.
  • Socotra Folk Museum- In the village of Riqela, along the main road connecting Hadiboh to Arher, you’ll pass the one-room Socotra Folk Museum. There are a handful of items inside including shells and corals collected from the shores, a sail, and various cultural artifacts including traditional Socotri clothing, a baby’s bassinet, and more.

Trekking in the Haggiers

Haggier Mountains & Central Socotra

This is where Socotra gets wild with deeps wadis, jagged peaks, an out-of-this world forest, and friendly Socotri Bedouin people.

  • Haggier Mountains- Rising from the Earth to heights of over 1,500 meters and home to Skånd Peak, Socotra’s highest point. The Haggier Mountains conveniently sit just south of Hadiboh. Several treks will take you to explore the Haggiers.
  • Dixam Plateau- This is the heart of Socotra, smack in the middle of the island. Dixam Plateau is home to a scattering of dragon blood trees, a dragon blood tree nursery and views into Wadi Dirhur.
  • Wadi Dirhur- The Grand Canyon of Socotra. From Dixam Plateau delve 700 meters down into the oasis-like canyon. If you make a short detour to the southeast where Wadi Dirhur meets up with another canyon you’ll find freshwater pools waiting you can swim in, though some do have a lot of green algae, so you can expect to be turned green. From the wadi you can trek up to the Firhmin Forest.
  • Firhmin Forest- The highest concentration of dragon blood trees in the entire world lies in this forest set atop the opposite side of Wadi Dirhur from Dixam Plateau.
  • Wadi Faro- This is a wild ride traveling along Wadi Faro from the north of Socotra to the south. There is a perfect oasis and nearby village halfway to break for lunch at.
  • Wadi Ayhaft- Wadi Ayhaft is located not too far from Hadiboh and is characterized by lush and green flora- you’ll see lots of Euphorbia trees, date palms, and succulents. You will eventually reach a large pool of water in the wadi.

South

Southern Socotra is the more off-beaten-path side of the island with sparse villages and wild beaches. Don’t miss the impressive Dagub Cave and the never ending dunes of Zahek and Hayf.

  • Zahek & Hayf Sand Dunes– These fields of bright white sand dunes seem to continue you forever, that is until they drop off into the Indian Ocean. Early morning is a nice time to visit as winds are usually dead calm, however the sunset is hard to beat.
  • Omaq Beach- This quiet beach along Socotra’s southern shore is the perfect place to camp and take in the island’s peaceful atmosphere.
  • Dagub Cave- The cave doesn’t go very deep but the opening of it is massive to say the least.
  • Kalysan- A gorgeous string of wadi pools the gnarl together near the southwest of Socotra.
  • Momi Plateau- Just due south of Homhil Protected Area, Momi offers amazing views over the island as well as a scattering of frankincense, bottle and cucumber trees.
  • Dahaisi Cave- This cave is quite an effort to reach, but has some interesting art carvings found on the walls. To reach the cave you’ll need the help of a local guide to show you the way across the Momi Plateau.
  • Steroh- The village you’ll reach on the southern coast of Socotra as you descend out of the mountains along the main road crossing the island from the north.

Thani Mohammed